Ely – only became a city in 1974
Ely has been on my list to explore since it is only a few minutes away by train, and 15 miles away if you choose to walk along the River Cam. I found an Alltrails route that was about 4 miles that begins from the train station and winds throughout the entire town with a stop at Ely Cathedral.
Prior to visiting Ely, I figured why not look into the towns history. Surprisingly Ely was named from Anglo Saxon word ‘Eilig’ or the ‘Isle of Eels’ since it used to sit on the largest island in Cambridgeshire Fens. It was founded in 673 A.D. for monks and nuns where an Abbey Church was built. It was only accessible by boat until the 17th century when the Fens were drained. Most notorious is the Ely Cathedral which was built by the Normans after they invaded in 1066 and took over 300 years to build. Ely became an official city on April 1, 1974 by Queen Elizabeth II, and reminds one of the smallest cities in England with an estimated population of 20,574.
After arriving via train I started the walk which led me through parks up towards the Ely Cathedral that makes an excellent backdrop.
Upon
Behind the Ely Cathedral is the Physics Garden which was planted in 2022 to help visitors understand the different plants that monks previously grew and used. I appreciated all the different sections that broke down what the plants were used for.
One section was focused on treating insect bites and stings which makes sense since Ely used to be an island, and one I would need since I always have insect bites no matter where I travel. It includes lavender, thyme, penny royal and marjoram. I have previously used lavender, lemon, and peppermint for an anti-inflammatory roll on after insect bites, so it makes me want to explore additional benefits of plants.
During medieval times mental health and sleep were recognized as a priority, which is interesting since sometimes mental health is downplayed nowadays. The plants were used most often in teas or infusions. Interestingly enough St. John’s Wort was highlighted as it helps treat depression and melancholy, and I have learned about it during my pharmacologic studies as some people still use it as a daily supplement. Chamomile was used to help soothe the nerves, insomnia and anxiety, and rose was used as an antidepressant and . This is interesting to me since my loose leaf sleepy time tea I drink while living in the UK contains both chamomile and rose, and works way better than anything I have used in the United States.
Urine was often used to help diagnose and guide treatment for ailments. Motherwort was used to help decrease heart palpitations and as a diuretic. Another diuretic used was parsley and even rose. I think it would be fascinating to travel back in time to an apothecary and see all the different plant tonics created and the results.
After spending an exorbitant amount of time in the herb garden, it was time to visit the Ely Cathedral with an admission price of £14. Included in the admission is a free audio guide which I advise as it gives you a great overview of the history of the Cathedral and the different areas of interest. If you are interested in additional experiences the Octagon Tower tour is £12 for the 170 stairs up inside the Octagon Tower. This is offered at set times during the week and weekend. The West Tour Experience is offered only on the weekends for an additional £9 to climb the 288 steps to have a great view of Ely. Since I was visiting on a weekday I would like to come back for the higher view.
Currently on display is the Threads through the Bible by Jacqui Parkinson. They took over ten years and 25 million stitches. As an avid crafter I was deeply impressed by all the different panels displayed and the sheer dedication to this work.
Another highlight for me was the stained glass windows on display, especially the panels dedicated to World War II. The lower panes of the window show a Wellington bomber flight. On the bottom left the plane is preparing for take off, then flying over the Ely Cathedral, crossing the North Sea, and then being caught in searchlights and being attacked.
After exiting the Cathedral I continued the walk throughout the city. The route included a walk through the cute downtown shops passing cafes, thrift stores, and even a cheesemonger. The path included Lavender Green and Ely Country Park while making your way to a hidden view of the Ely Cathedral. Overall the trail was easy to follow until you got close to Roswell Pits (think pond like feature) when it became overgrown and unmaintained. It was worth fighting the spiderwebs and thorny overgrowth for the view below.
After the view, I decided to alter the route and go back to the well maintained path. One feature that I feel like USA does not have is the right of public footpaths which are labeled and easy to find. The public footpaths typically are small alley ways, fields, or cross open grazing areas for livestock.
The remaining route followed the River Great Ouse back up towards the train station. This was my favorite section as it was a wide gravel trail which passed grazing cattle along the river bank, a variety of different birds, and very few people. You could take this gravel trail all the way back to Cambridge, but I was not feeling the additional 15 miles.
As you get closer to Ely you begin passing parked narrowboats which I always enjoy looking at and variety of pubs and restaurants for a nice snack. I chose a nice pit stop at Peacocks Tearoom. It is located near the river with a great front and back patio with an overwhelming selection of multiple pages of loose leaf teas. The food is also delicious as either a quick snack or a full meal. If you are an antique fan right next door is Waterside Antiques Centre which is at least three stories of different dealers selling a wide selection of antiques varying from tea sets, records, clothes, busts, roman coins, trains, and so much more. Overall I recommend Ely as a great way to spend the day.